If you want proof that accessibility of online information affects media coverage, consider the Kobe beef story that has suddenly become a hot topic.
Originally sourced to a writer on Forbes.com, the so-called “Kobe beef scam” has been picked up on MSNBC, wire services and hundreds of food blogs online. But is a story worth getting worked up about? Read on.
Like many American visitors, when I arrived in Tokyo a few years ago, I wanted to sample real Kobe beef, which I did. It’s quite pricey, but distinctively flavorful, worth the pile of yen I forked over just to say I tried it. Which is a product of the extensive marketing campaign connected with the raising and feeding of Waygu cattle from which Kobe beef is obtained—although I learned that the daily massages, the feeding of beer to the cattle and other alleged production methods are more hype than reality.
To qualify as Kobe beef in Japan, cattle must have been born in the country’s Hyogo prefecture (of which Kobe is the capital city), raised on pasture their entire life and processed in a local packing plant, none of which are approved for export to the United States. There are only an estimated 3,000 head of certified Kobe beef cattle, none outside Japan.
The Japan Meat Grading Association gives authentic Kobe beef from Japanese-bred Wagyu cattle the highest A5 grade (on a scale of A1 to A5) for marbling, and its lipid profile contains a higher percentage of healthier oleic acid than does U.S. beef. Plus, the fat in genuine Kobe beef will liquefy at approximately 80°F, which is why the typical preparation in Japanese restaurants involves a quick searing of thin slices, known as sukiyaki or shabu-shabu. Real Kobe beef can’t be grilled like we cook steaks—it would melt away all the fat and flavor.
And real Kobe beef sold in Japan carries a 10-digit identification number so customers know exactly which animal their (expensive) packet of beef came from.
None of that is common knowledge here, but what most self-styled foodies do knowis that even the “faux-be” Kobe beef available in the USA has extensive marbling, and thus added tenderness and taste.
So yes, as numerous food writers have suddenly seemed to notice, you can’t buy Japanese Kobe beef in the United States. Not in stores, not online and not even in high-end restaurants. That’s because it’s illegal to import Japanese beef, due to USDA restrictions related to foot-and-mouth disease.
Branding of Kobe beef is similar to the term “champagne.” The U.S.-based Champagne Bureau, which represents the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, the trade association for grape growers and vintners in the French province of Champagne, is focused on “Ensuring [that] ‘Champagne’ is properly protected,” since only grapes grown in Champagne can be used to make authentic bubbly.
As we’re all aware, however, there are plenty of cheaper substitutes that are also labeled “champagne.”
Fraudulent? Not really, although caveat emptor certainly applies.
A brand by any other name
Similarly,“Kobe beef” is regularly lauded on celebrity chef food shows, is available on high-end restaurant menus and at gourmet burger chains and is sold through any number of online retailers.
Why? Writing in Forbes.com, food and travel columnist Larry Olmsted explained that, “Despite the fact that Kobe Beef, Kobe Meat and Kobe Cattle are trademarks in Japan, these are neither recognized nor protected by U.S. law. As far as regulators here are concerned, Kobe beef, unlike Florida Orange Juice, means almost nothing. Like ‘natural,’ it is an adjective used mainly to confuse consumers and profit from that confusion.”
He’s right, but many vendors simply blur the lines between authentic, Japanese Kobe Beef from the original prefecture and high-quality Prime beef from crossbred cattle containing Wagyu genetics. They’re not perpetuating a scam, although an argument could be made that they’re treading awfully close to that line.
There’s not much difference between selling “American Style Kobe beef” to capitalize on the cachet of that brand and much of the marketing surrounding “Angus beef.” If you want confusion, check out the restaurant chains, the grocery stores and the online retailers offering all manner of Angus, Black Angus, Red Angus and Angus-style beef products. Many consumers are well aware of the Certified Angus Beef brand, but that doesn’t stop vendors from trying to capitalize on the name.
In the end, paying $40 for a Kobe beef burger, or up to $100 a pound for so-called Kobe beef cuts shipped from some distributor isn’t any different than shelling out $200 or $300 for a bottle of imported wine.
Yes, it will taste terrific, but as numerous blind samplings have demonstrated over the years, the average person unfamiliar with the subtleties of aroma, texture and mouth feel can’t tell the difference between a sip of Emmanuel Rouget Cros Parantoux and a slug of Two-Buck Chuck.
The case could be made that USDA ought to regulate the term Kobe beef (and a lot of other labeling claims). But in this and most other cases, the marketplace is self-regulating.
People who want to fork over for high-end products will continue to be swayed by names and labels and brands.
The rest of us will use customary caution to be sure we get what we pay for.
Bon appetit.
The opinions expressed in this commentary are solely those of Dan Murphy, a veteran food-industry journalist and commentator.
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